Tortuga's Back to Key West and Points North

3-1-18 This morning at 6:45 Karen motored out of the south anchorage of Fort Jefferson while I was on deck securing the anchor to Mango’s bow. We chose this morning to leave because all of the wind forecasts we could obtain from fellow cruisers with SSB radios and sat phones stated “leave today or wait several days to a week”. Morning winds were easterly at 15 to 17 with the promise of veering to ESE and then south until they die out late in the day. Mango chose to use a north route to Key West verses the south route that two other cruisers chose. We chose the north route acknowledging that Mango can’t point as close to the winds as the 2 other boats. 

After a charting and navigating snafu by yours truly we had the sails set beating into 3 foot seas speeding along at 5.5 to 7 knots, the sail trim has never been set so perfect as today. We knew we needed at least 70 miles to make it to Key West and had chosen Boca Grande as a stop off point for the night. Mango continued to speed along passing a ketch that had chosen the north route also. The wind slowly veered to the south as promised as we passed dozens of shrimp boats anchored waiting to begin their evening shrimping. The night promised to be clear accompanied by a full moon so Karen and I discussed the possibility of continuing all the way to Key West. The wind started dying as we passed Boca Grande and we continued to scoot along at 4 knots. This speed isn’t terrible but after we’ve been speeding along all day 4 knots seems terribly slow so an hour later we pulled down the sails and Karen started the motor for the remainder of the journey to the nights mooring in Key West. 

Karen catching a midday nap for the
overnight trip north.

Sundown over the Gulf of Mexico. Fortunately we had
NCAA basketball games until 1 in the morning.

It was a beautiful night with a large orange moon rising over the lightly clouded eastern horizon. It reminded both Karen and I of a halloween moon from when we were kids. The moon shining off the water made the night seem more like early daybreak as we were able to visualize unite buoy markers. The tide did end up against Mango all the way down the Northwest Channel but after our turn to Garrison Bight Mango was again speeding along at 7 knots on the motor slightly above idle. Karen saved Mango’s track on her iPad from our last visit which made locating our mooring ball even easier. Karen piloted Mango to the mooring ball as I was on the bow pulpit boat hook in hand waiting to grab the mooring ball. Soon Mango was fastened to the ball and we were relieved to be tied up for the night and ready to relax. It was a great day sailing however after 13 hours of wind, water and sun we were ready to chill.

Chilling was aided by the old standby of beer, crackers and cheese and a big bright moon. The windless night was very quiet with little sound from anything other than the occasion splash of water somewhere in the distance. I have to admit that it didn’t take long at all before we were both in bed knocked out.

Reason to leave Garrison Bite at Key West

At least Mango gets a good fresh water wash.

3-2-18 Morning came brightly as Karen was up first while I tried ignoring the sounds of the cruising life outside. I could only ignore it for so long before I was up and eating breakfast. As usual we conquered a few boat chores and were soon packing the dinghy to travel ashore to register with the mooring field. We were especially looking forward to real showers and shaves. It had been 5 days since our last good showers. Showering on Mango gets the job done but there’s nothing like the unlimited hot pressured water without fear of emptying the tanks.

After showers we felt as though we were lottery winners. Karen and I strolled into town watching all the comings and goings trying to decide where to grab a bite. We kinda promised ourselves to visit other establishments on this trip which along with the live music drove us into “Rick’s” on Duvall Street. Kelly the bartender recommended the 32 ounce rum bucket which along with a small breakfast really got the morning off to a fun start. We listened to the one man band attempt to liven up the few of us in the joint. He did a good job but the place got an injection of senior citizens off a cruise ship with coupons for drinks. The place was now flooded the fun loving octogenarians some with walkers others with canes. They made have had a few years under their belts (which were pulled up around their chests) but they knew how to have fun. The increase in excitement caused me to order another bucket while Karen found the peanut wagon. Great drinks and salty snacks along with superb people watching made the time pass like a kids first day at Disney.

The fun warm feeling coming over me along with the fact Karen and an unidentified senior citizen were touching the one man band (with his permission) made me think it’s about time for some real food. The thought was a good idea and we shuffled around the corner to Amigo Tacos where we could eat street side and watch all the action. For our entertainment life cooked up senior’s on bicycles which is amusing for many reasons. I think its’ great that they’re out on bicycles although wobbly as though they just finished the training wheels stage. It appeared all the bicyclists become color blind when it comes to traffic lights. Could this have something to do with the bicycles here having drink holders? We watched as patrons of Captain Tony’s posed in position to flip coins into the groupers mouth and of course the usual drunks doing the funny things drunks do. We were accompanied by an interesting Dutch couple who tell us that they come to Florida every year for 4 weeks, they didn’t seem to be as amused as Karen and I but I don’t think they had visited Rick’s Place yet either. Somehow talk tuned to politics and I assured them that they were welcome into the US, the Netherlands not being on the list of “Shit Hole” countries. We all laughed and the Dutch couple stated how surprised or shocked they were at Trump being elected. We had great conversation and parted company just being happy to in warm weather and enjoy each others company.

Post lunch both of us were still feeling a bit tipsy but found that a nap would soon be welcome in the near future so we headed back to Mango for much needed naps. We awoke from naps with plenty of time to witness the sun setting lounging on the back of Mango. Another great day stamped on the calendar.

Calm waters of Cayo Costa

Beautiful sunset and the arrival of stars everywhere
with a moonless night.

3/13/18 Mango’s current crew seem to have a different perception of time. Today Karen and I were meeting with some good friends we met in the Glades boat yard, Karen made the comment that we have been in Key West for 3 weeks and my mind raced as I thought we’d been here a week. Turns out we’re both wrong as it’s been 11 days. We have had some long days on board due to strong north winds but we’ve had some great times also. Karen’s always wanted to attend a Drag Queen Show down here and the other night we went. I have to admit that it wasn’t what I was expecting although I did have a good time. Karen seemed to have a great time especially with Racheal. Needless to say that we were out of singles by the end of the night and they weren’t going to the bartender. I have to give a special “Shout Out” to the girls from Virginia Tech as they made the night a blast. I would also comment that if you’re a young single guy in Key West looking for some girls the drag show seems to be the hot place to be. From my experience I would say that if there’s any question to the male / female question look at their knees, appears to me that there’s a thing known as “Guy Knees”. Unfortunately Karen deleted the pictures once the clarity of the morning arrived.

Karen and I have been getting acquainted with the area through walking everywhere. We’ve been putting on between 5 and 7 miles each day walking, this includes lugging groceries and laundry. Today we went ashore walking and ended up having lunch at Shonna Key Irish Pub. I’ve noticed the place when riding the bus back to Marathon and been wanting to stop by this place for several years. The place looks to be traditional Irish with most TV’s tuned to soccer or rugby. We strolled into the joint which appeared dimly lit after entering from the bright and sunny outdoors. I didn’t notice any bar patrons turn their heads as we entered they continued talking, watching TV or drinking. The bartender and waitress didn’t acknowledge us either. The tall husky waitress and the short round bartender both appeared busy scribbling the days specials on dry erase boards. I walked over to the two woman and asked if they preferred us to sit anywhere in particular, with slight accents they stated we could sit anywhere we pleased. Big husky blonde waitress came right over and we ordered 2 Harps and proceeded to scan the menu. We placed our order appearing to surprise the waitress as she didn’t recognize that we’re big eaters, appetizers, main meal and beer. She was great and so was the food. To her credit we do have a doggy bag and a light meal for another day. During our visit someone from Jameson was giving away shots which we had to partake in the first one but refused all others. I highly recommend this place, good food and beer at reasonable prices, especially for Key West. Interestingly, talking with our waitress we found that she’s from Czechoslovakia and she’s been here in the states for many years, so much for the all Irish staff. She highly recommends we attend Shonna for St. Patty’s Day, every one of their employees work that day.

3-15-18 The past 2 days crew of Mango have been hanging on while a bout of cold fronts blow their way the keys. Yesterday we never left our floating home while winds blew mostly out of the north bringing waves of 2 feet into Garrison Bite  mooring field. We kept busy with little projects and reading. This is the first real rain that we’ve seen all year and aside from the wind we’re happy with the rain. The deluge of rain was the first fresh water bath Mango was treated to this year and after 10 minutes of hard rain I ventured outside and allowed the rainwater to fill Mango’s freshwater tanks, we’re now overflowing with fresh water. 

Last Friday, Miller a good friend from our old harbor in Kenosha made his annual pilgrimage to Key West and we were able to meet him for some drinks and catching up. Normally we only see him at the end of C dock enjoying the sun and fun aboard his boat Jolly Mon. Seeing him this time was a bit different since Karen and I are brown from the Florida sun and Miller was sporting his February in Wisconsin tan, usually he’s the dark one. We enjoyed our time with him which seemed to fly by but knew we’d see more of him throughout the next week or so. Today Miller’s wife Linda arrived in Key West and were overjoyed to see her and share spend time together. They invited up to their place for a drink and then it was on to the Conch Republic for dinner. Linda was so nice to pickup the check for dinner and some of the best blackened fish I can remember eating. Afterwards we took an impromptu walking tour and grabbed some ice cream noting the night life had taken over Duvall Street.  After our tour completed its loop and we arrived back at our starting spot we said our evening goodbyes and started back to Mango. We let Linda and Miller know that we may leave tomorrow if current weather forecast holds. 

3-16-18 We would’ve liked to stay in Key West for St. Patty’s Day but looking at weather the next several days dictated that we leave this morning. There will be another cold front coming through on Wednesday and today winds will be most favorable for sailing north. So we leave this morning bright and early with easterly winds in the 10 to 15 knot range. Hopefully these winds will last longer than forecast.