Abacos February 2017

2-7-17     Today is the day that we (Greg did all the weather work) chose to leave for the Abacos. Really the only deciding factor was weather, if we didn’t leave today we wouldn’t have another chance until next Wednesday. Another deciding factor we had not thought of was the fact that the wind picked up in the anchorage and Fracas had a near miss with an unmanned motor cruiser Great Scot. When these people played down anchor near Fracas the other day we thought it looked too close, it sure was today. Today from Mango’s vantage point things really looked interesting as Greg was quickly pulling up anchor and an hour early. Since Fracas was ready to move we made the 2:15 bridge opening and staged in Lake Worth for the 5:15 start.

Fracas as seen from Mango leaving West Palm Beach.

During our staging I caught a quick nap and Karen worried we were too close to a neighboring sailboat monitored our distances with other boats nearby. We were anchors up by 5:15 and motoring out of the channel behind a large cargo ship. The ship quickly left us behind and I raised the sails and soon we were pounding into then the narrow waves of the entrance to the ocean. Seas did lay down a bit from the entrance but we pounded into the waves all night sometimes motor sailing to make a bit more south tracks to accommodate the effects of the gulf stream pushing us north. We had a mostly moonlit night that surrendered to lightening and a small squeal and little rain. The seas changed a bit and followed us on our stern quarter getting the best of Karen and she hung her head with a touch of Mal-de-mar, Good thing we didn’t eat much. It was a long night for everyone since Karen didn’t feel well and couldn’t sleep but at the same time it was beautiful. The 3/4 moon was so bright it lit everything from the clouds to the water. Stars looked as though they we buzzing across the sky with the movement of the clouds and Mango. All in all we made great time, Mango not as fast as Fracas but we made it. I thank Greg and MaryLynn for their radio company overnight and their help spotting squalls with the radar.

Alternative use for a Crock.

We laid the anchor down shortly after 10:15 AM in Big Sale Cay southern anchorage in 7 feet of water so clear I watched the anchor set. Not too bad for little Mango, a little over 100 miles in 17 hours, Fracas on the other hand was doing everything he could slow his roll. Karen and I quickly re-arranged Mango and cleaned up. I had plans for a swim and shower but was warned about sharks here. I questioned and was informed not to swim during shark feeding times. Not a watcher of Shark Week I had to inquire and was told lunchtime for us is a good time for a swim. Since the anchorage was deserted except for Fracas I went butt naked. Fracas arrived before us and went for naps shortly after our arrival so there I was and it was so nice. This is a wonderful place, I hope the night is clear so I can watch the sky and ponder things. Greg came over and I took a dinghy ride with him to view a wreck near shore. It was a sailboat from Beaufort NC that we believe washed ashore during Mathew, the owners wrote their names on the hull asking that salvagers leave everything along. That didn’t happen as almost everything of value was removed. It didn’t appear that the boat is salvageable anyhow or if it was the bill would be worth more than the boat.

View of Last Mango from Great Sale Cay Shore

Karen's new paper weight found ashore.

A barren, brutal shoreline.

While watching the sun set 3 more boats appeared and set down anchor in the harbor. I was amazed at the size of the harbor, it’s huge. There would be no issues putting 30 boats in here with the right wind. A still night came quickly with the appearance of no-see-um’s I abandoned my night sky viewing and went below decks to read a book by a friend from Elgin.

2-9-17     A lazy morning greeted me but before I was even out of bed Greg from Fracas was over in his dinghy dropping off the daily news rag (The Great Sale Blow Hard) and questioning the itinerary of the day. Apparently Greg declared himself Mayor and news reporter of Great Sale Cay. He and Karen settled that dinghy’s to the island at 10:30 for the beach and exploring. According to the crew of Fracas there was a US military base here many years ago and we will dock at that dock and walk over to the beach. I was excited to go ashore and see what there is to see.

The two dinghy’s left headed to what turned out to be a crumbling concrete dock and anchored the dinghies out in the water. Greg was tour guide and after following what appeared to be a trail passing many beer and wine bottles, old campfire remnants we ended up walking into a mangrove swamp (at least the water was warm). It was at this point that the girls were questioning our leader as he attempted to find a dry path for the next 100 yards to the beach.  It was at this point that Greg relinquished and we turned around and decided to take the dinghies around to the beach. We hopped in and motored closely to the mangroves scaring out hoards of Cormorants and a few Barracuda. We could see the breakers coming as we neared the point and thought about turning around. We persisted passing over waves that covered the Rays and fish swimming beneath us. We made it around to the beach a bit wetter than we started but in good shape. 

Laundry Day aboard Fracas

Karen ashore looking for a nice sandy beach.

Atlantic side of Allen's Cay covered in all sorts of plastic crap

 Our beach coaming revealed a few treasures for Fracas and puzzlement for me. There appears to be something digging up the beach and the consensus was probably wild pigs but were still unsure. Really amazing how much crap washes ashore, especially plastic. Plastic oil jugs, milk jugs, balloons, bags, coolers, shoes, plastic everywhere you look. It’s really too bad that these things will be here for years slowly degrading in the sun.

Evening came and we took the dinghy over to Fracas for Mexican Train Dominos, appetizers and one of MaryLynn’s wonderful meals. A couple of beers later and Greg and I found ourselves each winning a game as the girls declared it was dinner time. After dinner to proceeded upstairs to the cockpit to watch the almost full moon and stars. After 7 PM we noted that the wind was picking up from the north as expected so we decided to get back to Mango before it turns into a wet ride.

 

Much of the shore covered in plastic

Back at Mango the winds kept building into the 20’s and about 9:20 PM Karen looked outside to check our surrounding. With a worried tone in her voice Karen asked me to come up because we were now far from Fracas and any of the other boats. She was correct as usual and I  snapped on the instruments checking depth. Karen grabbed the iPad and checked our position where we played our anchor, we were still in place. Karen called Fracas on the radio and found that Fracas’s anchor had questionable holding and they thought it better to relocate and verify their hold rather than worry all night. Can’t blame them. As it was I don’t think any of us got much sleep, winds peaked in the high 20’s and Mango swung side to side but our Mantus anchor held sound. We love our Mantus. While the winds were blowing outside I started blowing my nose inside and discovered I now have a runny nose and cold. Karen’s kept her mind busy reading Bernie Sander’s book and I listened to podcasts and watched the iPads anchor alarm and tried to sleep.

Sign post pointing the way to the Atlantic side
of the island.

1/4 mile walk in the bush.

The walk lead to a bit of Whimsy.

 2-10-17     About 3 AM winds calmed to the teens and we drifted to a restless sleep waking shortly after 7 to survey the day. Mango held her place at the anchorage well and all but one other boat left for somewhere, probably for a more calm area. Good luck to them. Sometime later in the morning Greg stopped over to drop off todays newspaper and gather the scuttlebutt that happened overnight. After moving to her new locale Fracas faired the high winds well although her crew did not have a restful sleep. 

2-11-17     Anchors were pulled up at 8 AM and we sailed out of our anchorage beautifully. I knew that I would need to sail now because much of the day we be spent motoring against a light East wind. We were able to sail up to the top of Little Sale Cay and then our turn to the east  caused us to bring down the sails. It was great while it lasted. At 2:21 we laid down the anchor at Allen’s Cay in clear aqua blue water that made me want to dive in for a swim but the memory of the 10 foot or larger shark that swam under Mango’s stern made me think twice. Shortly after anchor down and a quick tidying of Mango we went ashore in search of a white sandy beach and the remnants of the US military outpost. After much searching and a few no-see-um bites we found the proper trail across the island and found ourselves at the end of the trail with a gorgeous view of the Atlantic reef breakers rolling in. We met two cruisers from Canada midway across the island who promised us “ A bit of whimsy” when we reach the end of the trail. Whimsical it was as we viewed trees with flotsam and jetsam adorned with the names of past visitors to the island.

Names of cruiser's who visited the island over the years.

When we returned to Mango we found that several other boats had entered the anchorage, mostly from Canada. Kinda funny thing we overheard while on the back of Mango. One of the boats that arrived was a larger powerboat from Florida with 4 men aboard. They had a go-fast dinghy that made me drool as they sped from place to place is seconds rather than minutes. In one of their slower moments they putted past Mango’s stern and stated her name and saw that we’re from Chicago and said, “Oh they’re from Chicago, they’re liberals”. I guess we’re lib’s but we though it was funny. Crews of Fracas and Mango did get a bit worried as the sun lowered in the sky and darkness started to set in. Thank goodness they returned, the four of them were drunk to point of having a hard time getting on and off the dinghy. Greg said said it best, that bad things can happen and are even more prone to happen with the addition of too much alcohol.

Greg scanning the beach at Allen's Cay for Sea Beans

 2-12-17     I would have liked to stay another night or so at Allen’s Cay but a possible wind event promising 50 knot winds prompted us to find a harbor safe from the expected wind. It’s probably a good thing to clear customs also. So off we are motoring with the help of the staysail to New Plymouth.

Last Mango and motor yacht under a setting sun
at Allen's Cay

Beach at Allen's Cay

After a few hours of motoring we arrived at New Plymouth wanting to register with customs, some told us customs was open others informed us they were not. In my dinghy voyage with Greg to customs we found that it was not open. Greg wisely asked me to run up to Bluff House Marina and grill to see what their rates were per week and if they could fit our 2 boats. As it turns out they were able to call immigration and verify they wouldn’t be there until Monday at 8:30 AM but we were allowed to stay at the marina. Marina staff said they would have their dock master call me about their ability to take our 2 boats. After much back and forth the dock master agreed that he could take our boats but was a bit concerned over Mango (the smaller boat) fitting into the slip. Karen and I decided we’d take a chance and work things out as it happened. 

Upon entering the channel to the marina we were told that depth was 7 feet or greater but we were seeing just less than 5 feet at times. The dock master Andrew stated that the tide seems lower today. At this point another marina patron stated that the depth in the slip next to where Andrew wanted us to go was 3.5 feet. Karen told him we would stay tied to the end of the dock and wait things out. We then assisted Fracas as Greg slid her into her slip gently without any help. Karen and I spied a slip not too far away from Fracas and asked Andrew why we could not move here. He didn’t have any issues and soon with the help of Greg and MaryLynn from Fracas Mango slid into the slip with 6.5 feet of water. Everyone was tied up now and ready for some relaxing. We’ll tackle customs tomorrow.

2-13-17     Morning seemed to come early and before I knew it Greg and I were speeding over to the customs office to check in and register. Things went well other than the typical filling out form after form. Afterwards we sped back to the marina and gathered up stuff and went with the girls to the Atlantic side of the island to enjoy the white sandy beaches and sunshine. Our beach time was great even though my skin did receive its weekly allotment of sun in one day.

The day ended with Mexican Train Dominos on the pool deck with happy hour “Tranquil Turtles”. One turtle was enough even though Greg and I had another. Karen whipped up dinner and soon we were all vegging on our proper boats. It’s 8:30 and I just went out to take a shower, the earlier clouds have disappeared and left a view of a bazillion stars. It’s just spectacular!

Last Mango's home for the next week.

View from Mango

Nice pool next to the bar and restaurant.