Rivers in Hindsight

11-20   Last Evening I was asked by a friend back home if I were doing the trip again would I go down the river again or take the Great Lakes out to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a good question because I have thought the same thing for years. I have to admit that I’ve heard horror stories from people who have gone both ways. We have met people who’ve gotten stuck in a broken down Erie Canal and had to have their boat lifted and trucked to the Atlantic. More horror stories than you can imagine about the river system and after doing it I would say that there mostly unfounded.

Almost everything looks different in Hindsight

What I can say is that the river system at times can be challenging (mostly the Illinois and Mississippi), beautiful and boring. A note to make is that both the Illinois and Mississippi were very flooded when we traveled them. The Illinois River was exciting at first, but just like driving through Illinois north to south it gets very long and boring very fast. It’s a crude river with very little great places to stop along the way. We did like the Ottawa free dock (Beware of Asian Carp), IVY Club (Peoria) and Grafton Marina (which is at the very end) but that’s about it. There is a lot of anchoring and remoteness. Not a problem but it does go on what seems like forever. Added to the forever is the length that we would have to wait to lock through the locks.  We waited anywhere from 2 to 5 hours for some locks.  This can make for a long day, and add stress as to where the next stop may be.

The Mississippi River is the river most people say they hated most, but I found it fascinating. The power and beauty were incredible. We saw depths over 100 feet and strong whirlpools 50 feet or more across that easily tossed Last Mango about at will. Again not much in the way of marinas. Other than St. Louis, the Mississippi is seems very remote and isolated. The tows are the only signs of civilization other than the occasional Looper. The tows on the Mississippi create much more of a water churn and wake than any other river we’ve seen. Unfortunately pictures can’t show the power of the water down near Cape Girardo and Cairo. The force of the water is pushed up and over islands and sand bars which means the water is up higher than we are and is actually coming down hill at us. At first glance I thought it was an optical illusion but it’s the real deal. Both Illinois and Mississippi are very muddy but the Mississippi is worse. The greatest thing about the Mississippi for a traveler is the current which can add 7 MPH or more to your speed. It makes the map pages seem to flip at will.

Cruising by the Arch which was under construction at the time.

After the Mississippi the Ohio seems very clear and very tame. Turning on to the Ohio the first thing you notice is that there is a 2 to 2.5 HPH current is against you (it gets stronger in areas) and then the bustling port area of Cairo IL. However after the Mississippi it’s a pleasure to be on such a peaceful stretch of water. We are only on the Ohio for about 2 days and anchoring was great at Bean Branch Creek and Cumberland Towhead Island.

The Cumberland River was also a pleasure. I believe it’s a bit more scenic than the others because the terrain changes. The current is still against you at this point and gets stronger the closer you get to the Massive Barkley lock. 

Kentucky Lake was beautiful and both Karen and I stated it was the first place we could have sailed in Last Mango. The one thing we needed to think about in Kentucky Lake was the wind. The wind hadn’t been a concern since Lake Michigan and now we needed to think it when anchoring and even motoring. It’s a big body of water the wind really rips across the water. No real current to speak of.

The Tennessee River is another scenic river with some changing terrain and lots of history the whole way. The Pickwick Lock is massive also, very much like the Barkley Lock. Again the current is against us until Pickwick Lake. Grand Harbor Marina was wonderful place to stay with Barry playing the role of a fantastic host.

The Tennessee Tombigbee waterway was nice, calm and for the first time since the Mississippi the current was coming from behind pushing us down the river. However the locks we more plentiful which slows our progress a bit. The locks on the Tenn-Tom were faster to turn over so it wasn’t too bad. Eventually the Tenn-Tom turns into the Black Warrior River depending on whose charts you use. The Black Warrior River twists and turns like mad but doesn’t last too long. It’s the home to the last lock and delivers you to Mobile Bay where we currently reside for a few more days.

Overall it’s been a great trip, Karen may disagree about certain things. Would I do it again? If I did it again it certainly wouldn’t be in a sailboat. I’ve learned many things about the rivers that would make it easier to do again. I think I would be more relaxed knowing what to expect from each river. Far too many people make this trip seem daunting and scary. It’s really not. There’s a saying that 2 of the older people we’ve met use. “Don’t wait for it to happen. Make it happen” or something to the same meaning.